Due to rough weather, our ship, “Carnival Luminosa” changes its intended course to visit Santo in Vanuatu instead of the intended course of Lifou and Mystery island. We’ve never been to Espiritu Santo (Holy Spirit) Island - the largest island in the New Hebrides Archipelago which consists of many hundreds of islands. With an area of 3,955 square kilometres and a population of around 40,000 people, the town of Luganville is Vanuatu’s second-largest settlement and the provincial capital.
A Spanish expedition of three ships led by Portuguese explorer Pedro Fernandos de Queiros, landed in 1606 at the Big Bay on the north side of the island. Queiros named the land “La Australis du Espiritu Santo” in acknowledgement of the Spanish king. Believing at the time that he had arrived in the Great Southern Continent, Terra Australis. Unfortunately, they were herded back into their ships by the local chief during an exchange of arrows and musket-fire, in which the chief was killed. After the departure of the Spanish, Santo was not visited again by Europeans until 160 years later by Louis de Bougainvillle in 1768 and James Cook in 1774.
During World War II, particularly after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, the island was used by American naval and air forces as a large military supply and support base, naval harbour and airfield. Luganville Airfield was a large airfield used during this time. The SS President Coolidge was a converted luxury liner that hit a sea mine during the war and was sunk. The shipwreck off Espiritu Santo later became a popular diving spot. The presence of the Americans contributed later to the island’s tourism in scuba diving, as the Americans dumped most of their used military and naval equipment and their refuse, at what is now known as “Million Dollar Point”.
The local people now make their living supporting the tourist trade, by cash-crop farming, mostly in copra, but also some cocoa beans and kava, as well as peanuts or by subsistence farming and fishing. Most of the people are Christians. However in the many villages, custom plays a large part in their lives regardless of their religion. The chief system continues strongly in most areas. The people of Santo face some health problems, especially malaria and tuberculosis. Although there is a hospital, most local people consult either their own witch doctor or medical clinics set up by western missionaries.
Today, Santo has not escaped the inclement weather and shortly after we get off the ship, it begins to shower and finally the tropical rain, although cooling in the humid weather begins to set in determinedly.
The Duck craze of hiding plastic ducks throughout the ships during cruises has perhaps predictably, ‘taken off’ and Sophie (our grand daughter) had amassed four during the three sailing days of our journey so far. This has occurred even after secreting another two herself! So it is, that as she gets off our ship on its visit to Santo, she is carrying three of those ducks, intending to gift them to children onshore. This is her first visit to this area and though nervous, she is captivated by all the things she has never seen before. We have spoken to her about the difficulties families on these islands have with possessing all the things which children in Australia have. This predictably includes plastic ducks as readily as more valuable items such as canned food and building materials!
Sophie is very shy at first, as we pass a large group of grass-skirted women, men and children all dancing and playing instruments beside the ship. It is no doubt over-whelming for her as she sees for the first time,. their shining dark skins wreathed with white toothed smiles amid energetic dancing vigour, all in one place. In order to get to the markets, we have to negotiate many taxi drivers who are trying to earn our Australian dollars by taking us on a journey across island to some of the deep blue pools fed by springs, in which you can swim. Prices are significant and it is difficult to find a vehicle which will safely fit five of us. Several Utilities pass us, laden with excited tourists who to my mind, are taking a significant risk in the open air trusting as they are in the capacity of the driver to safely deliver them back to the ship after their excursion. As the rain sets in, in earnest and we take shelter in the market stalls, it is decided that it isn’t a day for swimming afterall. We will shop and then return to the ship.
The stalls are selling handmade cotton shifts, timber necklaces, sarongs and bags in every colour in the rainbow. Katrina spies a stall where you can get your hair braided and Sophie takes up a position seated under a tent to get her hair braided tightly into two braids. Katrina looks through the cute little cotton dresses on display for little girls, and purchases two in matching patterns together with two tie-dyed T-shirts. Two primary school boys look on as we sit watching the braiding. Sophie decides that one of these young men will be her first duck recipient - a young boy perhaps of about nine years old. He receives her red duck with surprised gratitude and we depart to return to ship-ward shelter.
As we don our raincoats and raise our umbrellas, we have to again pass the large group of entertainers still dancing spiritedly beside the customs hall. Two girls in early puberty are dancing beside each other at the very edge of the group and Sophie locates her final two orange ducks, putting one in each of their outstretched hands. Their beautiful and disarming smiles, say all that they wish to convey.
Today’s lesson learned for Sophie, from our sojourn is how to get ‘your ducks all in a row’. I think she does this very well indeed.
A Spanish expedition of three ships led by Portuguese explorer Pedro Fernandos de Queiros, landed in 1606 at the Big Bay on the north side of the island. Queiros named the land “La Australis du Espiritu Santo” in acknowledgement of the Spanish king. Believing at the time that he had arrived in the Great Southern Continent, Terra Australis. Unfortunately, they were herded back into their ships by the local chief during an exchange of arrows and musket-fire, in which the chief was killed. After the departure of the Spanish, Santo was not visited again by Europeans until 160 years later by Louis de Bougainvillle in 1768 and James Cook in 1774.
During World War II, particularly after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, the island was used by American naval and air forces as a large military supply and support base, naval harbour and airfield. Luganville Airfield was a large airfield used during this time. The SS President Coolidge was a converted luxury liner that hit a sea mine during the war and was sunk. The shipwreck off Espiritu Santo later became a popular diving spot. The presence of the Americans contributed later to the island’s tourism in scuba diving, as the Americans dumped most of their used military and naval equipment and their refuse, at what is now known as “Million Dollar Point”.
The local people now make their living supporting the tourist trade, by cash-crop farming, mostly in copra, but also some cocoa beans and kava, as well as peanuts or by subsistence farming and fishing. Most of the people are Christians. However in the many villages, custom plays a large part in their lives regardless of their religion. The chief system continues strongly in most areas. The people of Santo face some health problems, especially malaria and tuberculosis. Although there is a hospital, most local people consult either their own witch doctor or medical clinics set up by western missionaries.
Today, Santo has not escaped the inclement weather and shortly after we get off the ship, it begins to shower and finally the tropical rain, although cooling in the humid weather begins to set in determinedly.
The Duck craze of hiding plastic ducks throughout the ships during cruises has perhaps predictably, ‘taken off’ and Sophie (our grand daughter) had amassed four during the three sailing days of our journey so far. This has occurred even after secreting another two herself! So it is, that as she gets off our ship on its visit to Santo, she is carrying three of those ducks, intending to gift them to children onshore. This is her first visit to this area and though nervous, she is captivated by all the things she has never seen before. We have spoken to her about the difficulties families on these islands have with possessing all the things which children in Australia have. This predictably includes plastic ducks as readily as more valuable items such as canned food and building materials!
Sophie is very shy at first, as we pass a large group of grass-skirted women, men and children all dancing and playing instruments beside the ship. It is no doubt over-whelming for her as she sees for the first time,. their shining dark skins wreathed with white toothed smiles amid energetic dancing vigour, all in one place. In order to get to the markets, we have to negotiate many taxi drivers who are trying to earn our Australian dollars by taking us on a journey across island to some of the deep blue pools fed by springs, in which you can swim. Prices are significant and it is difficult to find a vehicle which will safely fit five of us. Several Utilities pass us, laden with excited tourists who to my mind, are taking a significant risk in the open air trusting as they are in the capacity of the driver to safely deliver them back to the ship after their excursion. As the rain sets in, in earnest and we take shelter in the market stalls, it is decided that it isn’t a day for swimming afterall. We will shop and then return to the ship.
The stalls are selling handmade cotton shifts, timber necklaces, sarongs and bags in every colour in the rainbow. Katrina spies a stall where you can get your hair braided and Sophie takes up a position seated under a tent to get her hair braided tightly into two braids. Katrina looks through the cute little cotton dresses on display for little girls, and purchases two in matching patterns together with two tie-dyed T-shirts. Two primary school boys look on as we sit watching the braiding. Sophie decides that one of these young men will be her first duck recipient - a young boy perhaps of about nine years old. He receives her red duck with surprised gratitude and we depart to return to ship-ward shelter.
As we don our raincoats and raise our umbrellas, we have to again pass the large group of entertainers still dancing spiritedly beside the customs hall. Two girls in early puberty are dancing beside each other at the very edge of the group and Sophie locates her final two orange ducks, putting one in each of their outstretched hands. Their beautiful and disarming smiles, say all that they wish to convey.
Today’s lesson learned for Sophie, from our sojourn is how to get ‘your ducks all in a row’. I think she does this very well indeed.